A turntable produces an incredibly small signal - far too weak to connect directly to a standard amplifier input. I have found that this is one of the most confusing parts of setting up a vinyl system for the first time, because many people plug in a turntable and wonder why they hear almost nothing. The missing piece is a phono preamp, and understanding what it does will save you a lot of frustration and money.

Safety Note: Phono preamps are low-voltage signal devices and are generally safe to handle and connect yourself. However, if you are routing a phono stage through a vintage integrated amplifier or receiver that has a built-in phono input, do not attempt to open the amplifier to inspect or modify the phono circuitry unless you are experienced with high-voltage electronics. Vintage amplifier power supplies can hold dangerous charge even when unplugged. If you suspect a faulty built-in phono stage, have it checked by a qualified technician.

What Does a Phono Preamp Actually Do?

A phono preamp - also called a phono stage - does two things. First, it amplifies the tiny signal from your cartridge up to line level, which is the standard voltage that amplifiers, receivers, and powered speakers expect. Second, it applies a correction curve called the RIAA equalization curve.

The RIAA curve matters because vinyl records are not cut flat. When a record is pressed, the bass frequencies are reduced and the treble frequencies are boosted. This is done to prevent bass grooves from being cut so wide that they overlap, and to reduce surface noise. When you play the record back, the phono preamp reverses this - it boosts the bass and cuts the treble - so the audio comes out sounding correct. Without RIAA equalization, everything sounds thin and trebly.

I always tell people to think of a phono preamp as both a volume boost and a tone correction happening at the same time. Neither is optional if you want accurate playback.

Do You Need a Separate Phono Preamp?

Not necessarily - it depends on your equipment. There are three situations you will commonly encounter.

Built-in phono stage on the turntable: Many modern entry-level turntables, such as the Audio-Technica AT-LP120XUSB, include an internal phono preamp. These tables have a switch that lets you choose between “PHONO” output (raw cartridge signal) and “LINE” output (signal already processed by the internal preamp). If you use the LINE setting, you can plug directly into any aux or line input on an amplifier. The trade-off is that built-in preamps are often the cheapest component on the table, and replacing it with a dedicated external unit can meaningfully improve sound quality.

Built-in phono input on the amplifier or receiver: Most vintage receivers from the 1970s and 1980s include a phono input. If your amplifier has a dedicated PHONO input - not just a line input labeled “phono” - then it already contains a phono stage. You plug your turntable directly into that input, set the turntable to raw PHONO output, and you are done. In my experience, the phono stages in quality vintage receivers like the Marantz 2230 or Pioneer SX-780 are genuinely good and do not need to be replaced.

No phono input available: If you are using a modern amplifier, soundbar, or powered speakers that lack a phono input, you will need an external phono preamp. The same applies if you want to upgrade from a turntable’s built-in preamp. You connect the cartridge output to the external phono stage, then connect the phono stage’s output to any standard line input.

MM vs MC: Why the Cartridge Type Matters

Your phono preamp must match your cartridge type. If you are not sure which you have, I recommend reading our comparison of MM vs MC cartridges before buying any preamp.

Moving Magnet (MM) Cartridges

MM cartridges output a relatively strong signal - typically 4 to 6 millivolts. They work with any standard phono preamp, and almost every budget preamp on the market is designed for MM. The gain required is modest (around 40 dB) and the input impedance should be 47k ohms, which is an industry standard. If you have a beginner or mid-range turntable, you almost certainly have an MM cartridge.

Moving Coil (MC) Cartridges

MC cartridges output a much weaker signal - often 0.2 to 0.5 millivolts. They require significantly more gain (typically 60 dB or more), and some require specific impedance loading to sound their best. Not all phono preamps support MC cartridges. Those that do are usually labeled “MM/MC” and have adjustable settings. If you are just starting out with vinyl, I recommend staying with MM for now - the complexity and cost of MC rarely makes sense until you have the rest of the system sorted.

Gain, Impedance, and Why They Matter at Your Budget Level

For most people buying their first external phono preamp, gain and impedance are set at factory defaults that work perfectly well with standard MM cartridges. You do not need to adjust anything.

Where this becomes relevant is with MC cartridges and with very low-output MM cartridges like some Ortofon Quintet models. If you find that your cartridge sounds quiet even at high volume settings, the phono stage gain may be too low. The Vinyl Engine database at vinylengine.com is an excellent resource for looking up your cartridge’s exact output voltage and recommended loading.

Budget Phono Preamps That Actually Work

If you need an external phono preamp, there are solid options at every price point. I have worked through several of these personally when building budget systems.

At the entry level (under $50), the field is thin but workable. These preamps are adequate for getting started with an MM cartridge and will be a genuine upgrade over the built-in stages on most budget turntables. You can find a range of options by searching for phono preamps on Amazon - look for units with solid reviews and a clean 47k ohm input impedance spec.

Between $100 and $200, quality improves noticeably. Units in this range tend to use better op-amps and cleaner power supplies, which reduces noise and improves detail. If you are running a quality turntable like a Rega Planar 1 or a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon, a preamp in this range will serve it properly. The Schiit Mani 2 ($149 at the time I last checked) is one I have returned to repeatedly for recommendation - it is US-designed, quiet, and handles both MM and MC.

Above $200, you are looking at audiophile territory and diminishing returns unless your cartridge and the rest of your system genuinely justify it. In my experience, most people notice a larger improvement going from a turntable’s built-in stage to a $100 external preamp than going from a $100 preamp to a $400 one.

Using a Phono Preamp With a Vintage Receiver

If you are setting up a vintage receiver and using a modern turntable, pay attention to whether you are connecting to the PHONO input or a LINE input. Connecting an already-processed line-level signal to a PHONO input means the signal gets RIAA equalization applied twice - the result sounds bass-heavy and muddy. It is a common mistake.

Conversely, connecting a raw cartridge output to a LINE input skips equalization entirely - the result sounds thin and quiet. When in doubt, set your turntable to raw PHONO output and use the receiver’s PHONO input if it has one.

FAQ

Do I need a phono preamp if my turntable has a built-in one?

Not necessarily. If your turntable has an internal preamp and a LINE output setting, you can plug it directly into any amplifier or powered speaker with a standard line input. Whether to upgrade to an external phono stage is a question of sound quality preference and budget. The built-in preamps on most entry-level tables are functional but not high-quality - an external unit in the $80-150 range is usually a noticeable upgrade.

Can I use a phono preamp with Bluetooth speakers?

Yes. Run the turntable through the phono preamp, then connect the preamp’s RCA output to the analog input on your Bluetooth speaker if it has one, or use an RCA-to-3.5mm adapter to connect to a 3.5mm aux input. The phono preamp handles the amplification; the speaker just needs a line-level signal.

My volume is very low even at max - what is wrong?

The most common cause is connecting the raw cartridge signal (PHONO output) to a line input instead of a phono input. Line inputs expect a much stronger signal than a raw cartridge provides. Check your turntable’s output setting and make sure you are either using a PHONO input on your amplifier or running through a phono preamp first.

How do I know if my amplifier already has a phono stage?

Look at the inputs on the back. A true phono input will be labeled “PHONO” and will often be a separate pair of RCA jacks, sometimes with a grounding screw nearby. If you see just a row of identically-labeled LINE inputs with one called “phono,” that is typically just a renamed line input with no actual phono equalization built in.

Can I use any phono preamp with any turntable?

As long as the preamp supports your cartridge type (MM or MC), yes. The connections are standard RCA, and gain and impedance defaults on MM-rated preamps work with the vast majority of MM cartridges. The only exception is if you have an unusual low-output cartridge or a rare cartridge with non-standard loading requirements.

If you are new to vinyl and still choosing your first setup, the Beginner’s Guide to Vintage HiFi covers how all the components fit together, including where the phono stage sits in the signal chain.

About the Author

The Analog Revivalist team writes about vintage audio restoration, from sourcing components to final listening tests. Our guides are rooted in practical bench experience - we don't recommend what we haven't taken apart ourselves.

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